Love…The Stringy Kind

Finished Plate

Ah yes, Valentines Day is afoot.  The one day a year where singles are shunned and romantic cynics are born.  Being the perpetual singleton through all these years of gawdy pink hearts filled with chocolate and forced messages of affection being inflicted on so many “romantics”, I can say I am not a fan.

So, for those of you who are happily in love (as cynical as I am, I still believe in romance), and for those of you who don’t know what you are missing (you don’t know who you are, but I do 🙂 ), I present this treat.  Chocolate linguine with a raspberry wine sauce.  Love, with strings.

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Adventures in Cooking Classes – Dim Sum

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There is a culinary school located in Manhattan called the Institute of Culinary Education (ICE).  A couple of years ago, a couple of friends and I signed up for the Cookie class there.  It was 3.5 – 4 hours of pure, non-stop cookie baking, and not only did I have a blast, but I also had way over a pound of cookies to bring home.

This year, another class caught my eye, Dim Sum.  I was there!  So, my friend Liz and I ventured back out to the Flatiron district ready to make some of those yummy dim sum treats we enjoy so much.

The first hour was spent going over the ingredients, some basic knife skills and walking through the recipes.  Then we self split into three groups, with each group tasked with a menu that consisted of a handful of recipes from our packets.  My group was tasked to make:  Spare Ribs, Shrimp Shu Mai, Steamed Pork Buns and Egg Tarts.  As the self proclaimed hunters (the two men in our group) got to work on the spare ribs, and the other woman took the egg tarts, Liz and I tackled the Steamed Pork Buns.  I was psyched!

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Hot Pot – My Family’s Version

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Happy Lunar New Year!!!  This Dragon year is going to be a blast!  I can feel it.

Chinese new year is a big deal.  It is the one holiday the Chinese, as a whole, celebrate with vigor.  In a way, it’s like the Chinese version of an American Thanksgiving.  Family from far and away all merge under one roof to basically feast.  This year, I had to take the bus and trudge it up a steep half mile long hill, through the snow to make it for dinner…but that is another story!

This year, I had three new years eve dinners over the course of a weekend.  One with family friends, one with just my immediate family, and the true new years eve dinner with my extended family.  Food, food and more food!

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Cold Snap means Stew time

Vegetarian Moroccan Stew

It seems winter has finally arrived in the Northeast.  With temperatures barely breaking freezing these past few days, my craving for a nice warm and hearty stew began.

I love making stew because it is adaptable, easy and just by scaling up a little, can feed a small army.  This weekend I had a Moroccan Stew on the brain.

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Paper Wrapped Cake

Tea break

Paper Wrapped Cake is a literal translation of one of my favorite mid afternoon (sometimes breakfast) Chinese snacks.  In Cantonese it’s called a Zhee-Ba0-Dan-Go, and usually found in many Chinese bakeries.  I still can’t really pinpoint what it is exactly, which made my google search for a recipe that much more difficult.  It’s not a sponge cake, and it isn’t a chiffon cake either.  It’s almost like a cross between the two.  A denser, more substantial chiffon cake, with a more eggy feel to it.  Never the less, the local Asian supermarket by me used to sell them in their bakery and they were huge.  They used to be really good, until recently when they have become a bit dry on the outside and undercooked on the insides.  Sigh, what is a girl to do to fulfill her cravings for such a treat?  Make my own of course!

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Comfort Food

Momofuku

Yes, I finally did it.  I finally went to the one restaurant that has been on my hit list for the longest time.  I finally made it to lunch at the Momofuku Noodle Bar.

Apparently the place is still super popular judging by the typical Manhattan line up 15 minutes before the place opened.  That, I did not expect at all.  I had actually shown up 20 minutes before opening, saw maybe 5 people hanging out in various places on the sidewalk, then decided to cross the street for a few minutes to pop into a consignment store.  I come out not even 5 minutes later, and there were 20 people crowded around the front.  Crazy!

The place is tiny, and we were seated at one of the bars behind the soda machine, but right across the way from the open kitchen.  It was pretty awesome to see and hear the kitchen in action during the lunchtime rush.

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We knew what we were here for.  One order of Pork Buns, the Pork Ramen special for Liz and the Momofuku Ramen for me.

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Inagural Christmas Dinner at ChezSylvia

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This Christmas our family was going to join another family down in Brooklyn.  So, for Christmas Eve, I figured I host my family, along with the Choi’s and Chow’s.  16 people fit into my little place, since half of us were doing hot pot, and the children and a few of us were mostly eating more Western fare, seating worked out perfectly!

I provided the Western Fare, and I aimed to make enough food for about 8 people.  Since this was a lot more informal than my Thanksgiving Feast, and the age of my diners were under 17, I kept it simple.  This is what I prepared (I apologize for a lack of pictures….I just did not have the time, or the clean hands to pick up a camera and document):

Turkey

Mashed Potatoes

Roasted Vegetable Penne

Dijon-Braised Brussels Sprouts

Giblet Pan Gravy

Turkey

I have never made a turkey before.  I have roasted chicken, but never a turkey.  I also decided to brine the turkey in a brine that has come highly recommended by many people.  It was a lot of firsts for this dinner!

When it came to brining the turkey, I had a problem.  My fridge was not going to fit a 12 pound turkey swimming in a 5 gallon bath of salt and herbs.  I also did not have an outdoor area for me to leave a bucket to remain cool while it brined.  The only thing I could think of was to use a cooler.  So, I purchased a 28 quart cooler.  At least this way, I know the plastic was a little more food friendly than a home depot paint bucket, the insulation would keep the solution cool without having to constantly add ice and further dilute the solution, and I could always use it over the summer.  Multi-tasker!

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On the day of the roast, I was all over the place.  If you ever search on the inter-webs for instructions of how to roast a turkey, you will find everyone has their own preferred method and they all vary widely.  After an hour of hemming and hawing and unable to decide on a method, I finally followed my brother’s advice, and went with the Alton Brown method.  This meant I had to bump up my oven to 500degF.  The one reason I didn’t want to follow his method was this very fact.  500degF is hot, and having just spilled half a tray of cookies into the oven that morning, I was really nervous that maybe I didn’t get all the crumbs, and my oven was going to be smoking as the crumbs started charring.  It didn’t happen, my brother was here to help me out, thankfully.

Mashed Potatoes

I made a 5lb bag of Yukon Gold Potatoes.  My fat additions included a third of a block of cream cheese, a couple of tablespoons of butter and a couple of very generous scoops of 0% fat greek yogurt (I like Fage for this because it is creamier).  My liquid was whole milk.  Seasoned with kosher salt and pepper.

Roasted Veggies and Penne

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This was a kind of baked ziti, but not really.  The roasted veggies included: red peppers, onion, carrot, eggplant, yellow and green squash.  I roasted the veggies, then I put them in a very large bowl and tossed it with some freshly grated fontina cheese.  I also made a five minute tomato sauce I love from 101cookbooks.com (super easy and minimal ingredients to remember) and tossed some of that in too.  Then I put in the pasta, some chopped basil, and tossed that into the bowl too.  I put the mix back into the pans and into the oven with some freshly grated Parmesan cheese on top.

Dijon Braised Brussels Sprouts

I have never eaten a Brussels Sprout, therefore cooking them is all new to me.  I tried the Dijon Braised Brussels Sprouts from Smitten Kitchen.  It was pretty simple.  I cut them in half and I browned the halved sprouts in batches before I poured in the stock and wine and shallots and did a very quick braise.  Everyone was waiting at this point for dinner, and hot pot had started already, so I needed this dish done.  The moment the sprouts were tender, I took them out and whisked in the Dijon mustard and cream and let the simmer for a few minutes before I poured it all on top of the sprouts and put them on the table.

Giblet Gravy

This was a process. Based on the Giblet Pan Gravy recipe from cookingforengineers.com, it has three steps, which takes a half hour to an hour each.  First, I had to make a broth from browned giblets and onions.  I used chicken broth since that was what I had on hand.  I also was not sure if I was supposed to cut up the giblets or leave them whole.  I cut them up.  I made the broth, then I reserved about a cup of the broth and whisked in the butter and flour roux to make the gravy.  Once the turkey was taken out of the pan, I noticed that there were no browned bits on the bottom of the pan.  Hmm, what should I do?  I decided to just mix in some of the fatty juice at the bottom of the pan into the gravy.  Done and done!

All in all it was pretty successful.  The kids loved the gravy and mashed potatoes, and the turkey came out really well.  The white meat was still moist and very flavorful.  It was a touch on the salty side, but i figure that is what happens when you use a brine solution sized for up to a 20 pound turkey on a 12 pound turkey.  The brussels sprouts were good.  I could have used a little more Dijon, but I think the adults who were a little apprehensive about the sprouts (they said they were usually bitter) were turned and pleasantly surprised.  Since I was rushing, not all of the alcohol cooked out so the white wine was present, but not overwhelming.  Today was the only day I did not push those kids to eat the veggies.  They won this battle!

I hope everyone had a very wonderful Christmas filled with a very delicious home made meal!

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Ebelskivers Experiment

The yield

My history with Ebelskivers spans about two years.  I first heard about them from a friend while we were on one of our early Sunday runs.  Intrigued, they were automatically stored in the front of my mind.  For easy access of course.

A few months later, I was having breakfast with a friend at Shopsins when the word Ebelskivers magically caught my eye (if you’ve seen their menu, you will understand that unless you are looking for it, you aren’t going to find it).  So, after a meal of mac and cheese pancakes (Yes, it sounds odd, but they were delicious), we topped it off with an order of Ebelskivers.  It was as good as I had imagined.  Fluffy light pancake balls with banana on the inside and chocolate on the outside.  Very similar to the Chinese Egg cakes, but much bigger, and with stuff on the inside and chocolate.

And now it brings us to today.  Today I broke out my Ebelskiver pan and took it for a spin (I’ve had it for over a year now…it was a gift…I still owe her a batch…:-)).  I also had an Ebelskiver mix I bought from the same place the pan came from (not a year old, this was purchased recently).  Now all I needed were two eggs, 2 tablespoons melted butter and 1 cup of milk.

Egg yolk, butter and milk

I weighed out 190g of the mix and put it in a large bowl.  Then I separated the two eggs sloppily, and put the egg yolks and melted butter into the milk and whisked until it was all combined.  Into the bowl with the mix, it went and I gave it a good stirring until it was just coming together smoothly.

Out came my trusty stand mixer with the whisk attachment.  In went the egg whites.  On went the mixer (med-high) and whisked until stiff peaks start forming.

I folded the egg whites into the mix in two additions.

I put a tiny cube of butter in each well, and put it over medium heat until the butter was melted.  A tablespoon of the batter into each well was followed with a small scoop of filling plopped into the center of the batter in the wells.  I covered the filling with another tablespoon of the batter.

Butter in pan

Once the edges start looking like it’s separating from the edges of the well, take two skewers or two chopsticks or the turning tool you can get (but don’t really need) and gently turn the ball over.  It will feel messy and don’t worry if your turning instrument ends up in the middle of the ball.  It will settle on its own.  Once the other side is golden brown, they are done and ready for eating!

Done

I served mine with some softly whipped cream (which takes no time at all to whip by hand).

Nutella and Whipped cream

In my first batch, I filled mine with Nutella.  My second batch had Lingon Berry Preserves and my third were plain.  The Nutella were by far my favorite.  The Lingon berry preserve kind of absorbed into the pancake itself, and they felt more gooey.  The plains were pretty good and went well with maple syrup.

Insides

Lingon Berry

Plain

Overall, I think it’s a nice weekend breakfast treat or even breakfast dessert.  Even for a mix, it takes a little more effort than pancakes from a mix, but it’s well worth it.  You can fill them with anything some what solid, and won’t melt when heated. Even pieces of fruit!

Once this mix is gone, I will have to give it a try from scratch.  I didn’t realize the tag on the pan had a recipe from scratch.  Next time…but first, I need to pick up some more Nutella!

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Sponge Cheese cake….sandwich?

Spongy Cheese Cake

I have no idea what to call this cake.  It’s a new one for sure.  The idea started when I was sifting through a bunch of old Tasting Table emails I get for chef’s recipes.  Liquid Cheesecake was the recipe that caught my eye.  Liquid Cheesecake?  I must know more!  It is a recipe from Christina Tosi, the dessert chef of Momofuku Milk Bar (I swear, it’s a coincidence, I’m not obsessed!).  It had mentioned in the intro blurb that it could be used as a cake layer.  Hmmm…the brainwaves started waving.

Cheesecake in itself is heavy and full of its own smooth unique flavor.  It would need to be sandwiched between a cake that was lighter and not as sweet so it won’t compete.  Sponge cake might fit the bill.  Besides, Juniors cheesecakes use a very thin layer of a lemon sponge cake as their crust.

So, Sponge cake with a cheese cake layer.  To wrap it all up, I need a frosting that was also light and not as sweet.  Whipped cream frosting?  Who doesn’t like cheesecake with whipped cream right?  So, off I went, to assemble this cake, using two items I have never made before.

Sponge Cake:

Eggs, beaten

I followed a recipe from the Cake Boss for his supposedly famous sponge cake.  I don’t watch Cake Boss, so I wasn’t sure why this sponge cake was in such high demand.  After a little internet searching, it seemed legit, and much easier than another sponge cake recipe I was originally going to use from joyofbaking.com that was based on one from The Cake Bible.  I followed the recipe pretty exactly, except I did cut the sugar down by about half a cup.

Cakes, done

The recipe was easy to follow, and it came together okay.  I only had two 9″ pans as opposed to the two 8″ pans it called for, so it came out a little thinner.  Also, on top of the flouring of the pan, I also cut out parchment paper to put on the bottoms to ease the removal of the cake.

Liquid Cheese Cake:

Sugar to Cream Cheese

Lesson learned from my failed attempt at cheesecake a week ago.  Don’t use the cheap stuff.  I used Philadelphia Cream Cheese for this one, and followed the recipe almost to the T.  I did cut the sugar down just a hair.  Also, it calls for the mixture to be poured into a pan lined with plastic wrap.  I don’t know about you, but the thought of plastic wrap in a 300 degF oven made me a little uneasy, so I used a glass baking dish.

Chopsticks to whisk

Whisking with chopsticks!

Whipped Cream Frosting:

This recipe was adapted from the Cake Bible by joyofbaking.com.  I love The Cake Bible.  I really should get my own copy since I basically paid as much in overdue library book fees over the multiple times I’ve borrowed it.  This recipe is very easy, but don’t whip it by hand.  It will take forever and you will be very tired.  It’s basically making whipped cream and the chilling of the bowl, cream and whisk beforehand really does help it stay whipped nicely.

I put it all together, along with some crushed graham crackers sprinkled in between layers and mushed along the sides, and took it to an 11 year old’s birthday party.

Cake, mid layer

The second layer

A few hours later, after having a slice, I was happy it wasn’t totally inedible.  There is much room for improvement.

First, the sponge cake.  It was dense, a lot denser than I imagined.  It was still moist and honestly, it tasted almost like the Chinese steamed sponge cakes my mom used to make for me.  It was very eggy, and had that sweetness to it that I associate with those steamed cakes.  I think next time I will try the other sponge cake recipe.

The cheesecake layer was too thin.  It needed to be thicker for more cheesecake impact.  By itself, the liquid cheesecake was awesome.  Those spoons I used went into the sink licked clean.  I took the leftovers and lined a ramekin with leftover graham cracker bits, spooned in the leftover cheesecake and topped with leftover whipped cream.  That’s for later.

Liquid Cheesecake, done

The whipped cream topping was the right choice.  It made the cake pretty without making it over the top sweet, which my audience appreciated.  Sweet is enjoyed in slight moderation for the Chinese. I grew up in the US, so my tolerance of sweet is a little more skewed towards the American side of the sweet spectrum, but I too enjoy my sweets in moderation.

I think next time, less cake, but more spongy, more cheesecake, and keep the whipped cream.  Also, if not to be eaten right away, skip the graham crackers. Over time, they get soggy and just disappear into the cake.

Time for more practice!

Slice of Spongy Cheesecake

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Pork Belly…Good

Pork Bun - Yum

For a woman who has turned to the flexitarian way (more veggies, very little meat) for the past year or two, I seemed to also have developed an odd fascination with all things pork.  Especially pork belly.  It is odd, but if it’s a phase, I’m totally running with it.

Case in point.  The Pork Bun.  Not the steamed pork bun you find in Chinatown, fluffy white bread stuffed with a deliciously sweet and savory chinese roast pork.  This one is somewhat of a remastered version brought to life by the super awesome David Chang and his Momofuku Noodle Bar.  I’ve actually never had the pleasure of eating at any of his restaurants.  Although, as mentioned in the previous post, I did get to sample the candy bar pie from Milk Bar.  It is sitting in my freezer right now.  Can’t let it go to waste.

Until I actually make it to any one of his restaurants, I guess in weird analogy world, it’s like meeting for the first time on something like match.com.  I’m completely enamored by the concept of Momofuku.  He looks perfect on paper.  But, in real life, until I actually sit down and have a meal at one of them, I won’t know if he will be something I would like to continue seeing or be a complete disaster and will never speak of him again. (But, David Chang…if you need anyone to sample any of your newest ideas …I’m available 😉 )

Bygones.  Onwards to the point of this post.  My brother, Andrew, got me the Momofuku cookbook for Christmas last year. It’s a pretty interesting read about his stories behind some of his dishes. The recipes range from pretty easy (like these pork buns) to, good to know but I’ll just leave it to the professionals, difficult.

I usually get my pork belly from one of the busier (busier = quicker turnover) Asian supermarkets.  They usually have very nice thick slabs of pork belly available, but with skin still on, and origin unknown.  After 15 minutes of struggling with de-skinning the darn thing, you become a pro.

This time I went to my local Whole Foods and used my Living Social voucher to help subsidize it.  The pork belly slabs were thinner, skinned and origin better known, which you end up paying extra for.

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Pork belly in hand, and the night before I was planning on roasting it up, I took out my trusty 8×8 pan, mixed together 0.25 cups each of kosher salt and sugar, and rubbed it all over the belly before nestling them in the pan.  I covered the pan with plastic wrap and put it in the fridge over night (but no more than 12 hours).

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The next morning, I cranked up my oven to 450 degF and once up to temp, took out my pork belly, poured out any liquid and put it into the oven for an hour (sans plastic wrap of course), basting at the 30 min mark.

Then the oven temp was decreased to 250 deg F and I let it slowly roast till it was tender, about 1.5 hours for me.

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Out of the oven, I took out the bellies and placed them on some foil.  The fat at the bottom of the pan was poured into a waiting jar.  That stuff is gold.  I love my peasant food, and a scoop of this when cooled with some hot rice…so good…

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This is why I save my jars. Reuse!

I snuck a piece (had to taste the goods) then wrapped them and put them in the fridge to chill.  It was crispy, melt in your mouth deliciousness.

About a half hour before I planned on serving, I sliced up some cucumbers (Kirby) into thin-ish disks and tossed them in a teaspoon of salt and tablespoon of sugar and put it in the fridge.

The I sliced up some scallions, pour out some Oyster flavored sauce (my preference over the Hoisin sauce he calls for), and sliced up some pork belly from the fridge and reheated them on a pan.  When I was ready for assembly, I reheated some frozen mantau bau (Lotus leaf bread as the package sometimes calls them) wraps (they aren’t thin like a wrap, but not bau shaped like a mantau bau is usually) in a microwave as per the manufacturers directions.

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The fixins

Then I took a bau, spread some oyster sauce on one side, topped with some cucumber, a piece (or two) of pork belly and topped with some scallion.  Enjoy! I did 🙂

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